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# 03/03/2013 à 01:48 appalsvic (site web)
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# 03/03/2013 à 13:07 Teresa Treacy (site web)
Terry Fincher/Keystone/Getty Images A fashion model wearing a dress and coat by Balenciaga in 1955. Elevating Alexander WangAs this young designer prepares to show his first collection as Balenciaga's creative director in Paris, the question has been whether the label will step down to Alexander Wang or if he will step up to Balenciaga. In his own label's show, we have our answer. The young, hip and restless Mr. Wang may have made his name with luxe T-shirts, but he has clearly studied the graceful, volumino louis vuitton borse us curves that made an icon of Cristobal Balenciaga. (These curves seem to have inspired many New York designers this season. Were they thinking about the Balenciaga job while designing their collections?)A Designer's DreamFresh off dressing Michelle Obama for the inauguration, Thom Browne rocked fashion week with the sort of conceptual show usually seen in Paris, set among male models trussed to iron beds in a snowy forest. The giant square jackets and insanely draped Miss Havisham gowns may not be the thing for a state dinner. But his collection encapsulated many of the futuristic trends playing out all over New York's runways: tweeds, blocking of color, patterns and textures, volume at the shoulders, and graceful waists under boxy jackets. Fresh Labels to WatchDiscovering labels is what fashion week is all about. Ostwald Helgason has "cool girl" written all over it and comes from two cerebral London-based designers, Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason. This season's inspiration鈥攄ark French poetry and "Little Shop of Horrors"鈥攕uggests a street-nerd sensibility. "We like to mix things up," Mr. Helgason said. Under the ,1,S] sure hand of designer Josep Font, Delpozo is the other end of fashion鈥攖otal luxury with haute-couture details like elaborate pleating and hand embellishment. In another mash-up, Mr. Font described his collection as "organic borse louis vuitton architecture and the Victorian era." Wes Gordon's show venue, the grungy Gramercy Theatre, hid the luster of his luxe label. But his collection is memorable, with items such as a blouse woven of 90% metal threads.Fur ContraptionsThis season is notable for strange tricks with fur. Alexander Wang's Longchamp sale gigantic fur yeti mittens may make fun fashion editorials, but they'd make it hard for a woman to search for her keys. Joseph Altuzarra gets a misdemeanor citation for Weird Use of Fur for odd intarsia-like fur embellishments on leather and fabric. One dress evoked Bo Peep with fur.
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